Jewellery trends at Baselworld 2017

Jewellery trends at Baselworld 2017

A look at the most important themes and directions

Jewellery trends at Baselworld 2017

A look at the most important themes and directions

Baselworld 2017 stretched from the 23rd to the 30th of March. With the industry going through a challenging phase many brands went for classic and established trends and styles. The limelight was also directed towards smaller, independent watch and jewellery brands through the installation of two new areas; Les Ateliers and the Design Lab. In summary, the most dominant themes at the show were nature, story-telling, and minimalism. There were also strong industrial influences and inspirations coming from ancient history.

Nature: Returning to the Roots

An infinite source of inspiration that speaks to consumers from all over the world. Nature as a theme that includes gardens, forests, jungles, the sea and all their inhabitants will never fade. As the market is going through an unstable phase many designers seem to play it safe and go for more classic nature inspired motifs. Flowers, butterflies, and dragonflies are all dressed in sparkling diamonds and gemstones like rubies and emeralds.

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Necklace by Stenzhorn

Though there is a slight return to a more classic flora and fauna, funny and exotic animals have been stealing the show during the last seasons and they are still an important part of this trend. Different types of birds together with tigers and lions are the most popular motifs borrowed from the animal kingdom. Asia also influences this theme with animals like cranes, pandas, and magical creatures like dragons.

02

Rings by Gucci

Delicate Minimalism

The ultra light and minimal theme have established itself as one of the most important international jewellery trends. Even brands that are known for eye-catching, opulent designs incorporate more delicate pieces in their collections. This theme attracts a wide range of consumers through lower prices and styles that are suitable for many different occasions. It’s the equivalent of a crisp, white shirt that can be worn with just about everything.

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Earrings by Yoko London

As far as materials go; micro-chains, white diamonds, and pearls are the most important ingredients. The silhouettes consist of open collar necklaces, front-and-back and swing earrings, and chain rings.  Also stackable bracelets and rings, as well as layered necklaces are key.

Story-Telling and Magic

Closely linked to different cultural heritages, the story-telling trend is still going strong. Inspirations from fables, fairy-tales, and ancient myths all evoke emotions and fantasies. One example is the Italian designer Alessio Boschi. His new collection is inspired by different Italian cities; the gondolas of Venice, the colosseum in Rome, the duomo in Milan. Verona is represented through the tale of Romeo and Juliet, and the rings in particular are covered with tiny details that tells the story of the two lovers.

04

Alessio Boschi

Astrology and astronomy are also related to this theme and are now established trends influencing the use of design motifs like stars and moons. Australian pearl brand Autore’s latest collection revolves around this and shows a variety of lunar and stellar designs, as well as inspirations from far-away galaxies pictured by multi colour pavé.

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Autore

Industrial Influences

Metal-centric and bold jewellery pieces inspired by hardware like bolts and different tools stand in clear contrast to some of the other more opulent directions. The items in this theme have a hard feeling to them, and some are bent and twisted. The surfaces are matte, brushed, or polished, and sometimes also combined in one piece of jewellery for a dynamic effect. Stones are sparsely used, yet some items feature brown, black, and white diamonds.

06

Georg Jensen

Many items also combine different metal colours; gunmetal together with yellow gold, silver together with pink gold, and so on.

07

 Rings by Calvin Klein

Combination of Cuts

The combination of white diamonds in different cuts and sizes create dynamic and intriguing jewellery pieces. Round, oval, and baguette cuts all come together in the same object. The floating and sprinkled diamonds trend is still evident but seems to be heading in a more geometric direction.

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Earrings by Messika

White gold gives these items a super clean look with a contemporary, minimalist feel. There is also a hint of Art Deco inspiration through the use of square and octagonal shapes. The silhouettes are usually simple and sophisticated.

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Bracelet by Stenzhorn

Ancient History

Past civilisations and empires influence 21st century designers that draw inspiration from architecture and art as well as mythology and religion. Especially ancient Egypt plays a major role in this theme and one example is French designer Lydia Courteille whose collection ”Sahara” features snakes and scarabs. Eastern Europe and Russia are also big sources of inspiration that will increase.

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Necklace by Lydia Courteille

 Important Silhouettes

Chokers have trickled up to the high jewellery department fuelled by the 90’s trend in fashion. They come in many different versions, some imitate the plastic ”tattoo chokers”, others are covered in diamonds. Items in mixed media offer leather or satin together with gold and white diamonds. Gemstones are also in the mix, especially in pieces layered together with other chokers and longer necklaces.

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Choker necklace by de Grisogono

Asymmetry adds a sense of innovation and novelty to classic shapes and motifs. Lace for example, being traditional and romantic, gets an instant update in a pair of earrings by JJewels. Messika is another brand playing with asymmetry and in particular focusing on different lengths and proportions. The trend is the most evident in the earrings category, but also necklaces, bracelets, and rings get their fair share of disharmony. One example is jewellery pieces that are open, such as cuff bracelets and collar necklaces, and feature different stones or motifs on each end.

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Earrings by JJewels

 Hair Jewellery

Part jewellery object, part luxury accessory. Adorning other parts of the body with jewellery besides for the neck, earlobes, fingers, and wrists are becoming increasingly common. The head and hair offers a great place to play with silhouettes and positioning. Often inspired by nature or covered in sparkling diamonds, the hair jewellery pieces transform their wearers into earth goddesses or old school Hollywood divas.

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Hairpiece by Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen

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